The Undercliff
The Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliff.
The Axmouth to Lyme Regis Undercliff is a National Nature Reserve and is the largest self sown ash woodland in Britain. Walkers can enjoy this fascinating landscape by walking the 7 mile long part of the South West Coastal Path which runs through the Undercliff.
This section of the East Devon and Dorset coast line has been prone to land slips for thousands of years. Although land slips still occur due to the instability of the ground and cliffs, the largest and most spectacular landslip of recent times occurred on the coast line at Dowlands Cliffs between Axmouth and Lyme Regis at the Christmas of 1839.
Over a period of 48 hours, about 16 acres of land or 8 million tonnes of rock split off from the cliffs and slid towards the sea. This landslip opened a chasm ¾ mile long, 120m wide and 30 to 45m deep. The movement of so much rock forced up a section of the sea bed a mile long and 12m high to form a reef running parallel with the shore and enclosing a pool or bay which at one point was suggested as a harbour for the Royal Navy.
This reef has long since been washed away by the sea and the raw steep sides of the chasm have been further eroded by the weather and smaller landslips to form the landscape that we see today.
The cliff tops are 100m – 150m above sea level with the landslip sharply dipping down to 20m above sea level forming a landscape which is sheltered from the worst of the weather and benefits from its own micro climate. Signs of land slipping are every where; the path is crossed with cracks in the ground, huge rocks appear to be sliding slowly towards the sea the path twists and turns some times up, sometimes down all within a landscape that has become densely overgrown.
Walking this part of the South West Coastal Path through Undercliff is a matchless experience, and is often compared to walking through a ‘jungle’. The path is often slippery, wet and rough going. The undergrowth varies, with dense ash woodland and hazel coppice mixed with stunted trees covered in wild clematis (old mans beard) to impenetrable scrub. The foliage of the ash woodland allows light to reach the ground below so that primroses, orchids and many other wildflowers together with a huge number of insects find a natural home protected by the micro climate of the Undercliff.
The Under Hooken Landslip.
The Under Hooken Landslip is smaller than the landslip between Seaton and Lyme Regis but on a clear day the views along the coast towards Sidmouth from the top of Hooken cliff and down into the landslip are spectacular.
The Under Hooken landslip occurred in the March of 1790 when an underground stream had its passage to the sea blocked over a period of two years undermined the cliff rock strata.
The marshes provide the ideal habitat for many types of plant life, Soft Rush, Hemlock Water Dropwort, Brooklime and Figwort. The plants and the marsh environment are home to many types of insects, most noticeably in the summer months Dragon flies.
From the cliff top, the most dominant feature of the under slip are the pinnacles, two pillars of chalk from the original cliff face which appear to have slipped down towards the sea yet remained intact.
The South West Coastal path includes a diversion down the cliff via steep steps into the under cliff. Going down the steps each turn brings into view yet more spectacular views of the sea, beach and Undercliff. Eventually the steps lead down into the ‘valley’ of the under cliff between the seaward ridge of the Pinnacles and the Hooken Cliff.
Again the shelter given by the under cliff creates a mild micro climate in which the plant life flourishes providing a perfect environment for insects and other wild life.
The path continues to slope down towards the beach eventually reaching a split in the path where it is possible to gain access onto Hooken beach or continue along a winding path which carries on through the under cliff towards Branscombe Mouth and the village of Branscombe.
Undercliff Walks
For further pictures of the South West Coastal Path visit the following links:
